Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Next Up: The Santa Fe Indian Market

Save the date: Aug. 23-24, 2008 is the prestigious Santa Fe Indian Market, a juried show featuring and selling the best of Native American art, sponsored by the Southwestern Association for Indian Arts. This annual event is THE world's best market for Native American art and is held at the Santa Fe Plaza in Santa Fe, New Mexico - one of my favorite American cities.

Monday, June 16, 2008

A New Moroccan Lantern

What a fun treasure hunt it has been this past weekend going through the shops at Andersonville. This up-and-coming, yet still a diverse and earthy neighborhood on Chicago's northside, celebrated its 43rd Annual Midsommarfest on June 14 and 15, 2008. And as if by divine luck, I stumbled upon a Moroccan shop - Marrakech Treasures! As I walked through the door I instantly recalled the souks of Marrakesh which I visited just a month ago. This shop is by far the only full-pledged shop I know that sells a plethora of Moroccan items in Chicago's northside. I was lucky to have found this beautiful Moroccan lantern (12" wide x 24" high) - substantial enough to make a statement in my living room. So here it is, I proudly show a traditional Moroccan lantern, lighting gracefully, and keeping me company as I listen to the Rhythms of Morocco on this balmy Monday night.

Shop Moroccan at:
Marrakech Treasures
5416 N. Clark St.
Chicago, IL 60640

Monday, June 9, 2008

A Taste of Morocco in Chicago

Moroccans in Chicago are outnumbered by cities such as New York City, Boston or Washington, DC. Census estimates that they number in the low thousands. View this demographic report on Moroccans in Chicago.

Interestingly enough, there are a few Moroccan restaurants in Chicago, which I plan to visit individually to find out if they offer a similar ambiance and taste that I had experienced while visiting Morocco...one can only hope! For foodies out there, here's a list to start off with:

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Traveling Tips

French or Arabic?
Most Moroccans speak French (they default to French once they figured out you cannot speak in Arabic), but it is said that Moroccans will go out of their way to accommodate a foreigner who speaks at least basic Arabic. I can attest to this - when a newly found friend from Turkey shopped with me in the souks, we usually got hefty discounts and special treatment when my Turkish friend tried to speak in Arabic (he was not fluent but can get by with simple conversations). At the Hotel Nakhla in Essaouira, we were able to get a great bargain for a double room for about half the rack rate with breakfast included! Bargaining is such a daily fact of life in Morocco and every price is subject to bargaining except perhaps their utility bills!

Etiquette and Local Customs
Most Moroccans seemed polite. I observed that every conversation always started with a proper greeting, either in Arabic or French. If you do not speak either language, default to English, and most merchants will accommodate you. Knowing basic greetings in French should be spoken by a budding tourist at a minimum to maximize one's experience in this former French protectorate.

Between sexes, men and women may greet each other with an "air kiss" on both cheeks, and that's the closest physical contact that is displayed in public. Between men, physical contact is more openly displayed. It is common to see men holding hands in public but it is non-sexual in nature.

Moroccan Interior Architecture

What makes an old medina home full of character are the gracious lines and curves that integrate so seamlessly - archway doors, a courtyard fountain, camel skin sconces, iron lanterns, the most incredible zellij (tile mosaic) work and brave colors. Homes in Morocco are so alive - my favorites are the ones with a living rooftop space and also the ones that have an interior courtyard space for afternoon relaxation.

During the mornings right after breakfast, I go to the rooftop outdoor living space and simply marvel at the views of Marrakeshi homes. Because the tallest structures are the mosques (every neighborhood has to have a mosque), they make pretty good visual cues about location. This is the central mosque at the medina which was taken while I was peering through the iron railings of the rooftop at my hotel (see photo on left).

I also had the pleasure of visiting the famous Ali Ben Youssef medersa, a school of Koran which used to house students (and at one point was the largest Koranic school in North Africa) - I have never seen tile work as beautiful as those I found at this medersa in Marrakesh. Simply breathtaking!

Another interesting 19th century architectural piece is this courtyard fountain at the La Bahia Palace, a few minutes walk from the central square in Marrakesh, which used to be a harem. It has a wonderful display of painted wood, ceramics, smooth marble and symmetrical gardens.

Last and not least, here is another example of the grandiosity of arched doorways typical of grand homes and palaces in Morocco with intricate carvings - and the smaller the carving, the richer the details seem to be.