Traveling Tips

French or Arabic?
Most Moroccans speak French (they default to French once they figured out you cannot speak in Arabic), but it is said that Moroccans will go out of their way to accommodate a foreigner who speaks at least basic Arabic. I can attest to this - when a newly found friend from Turkey shopped with me in the souks, we usually got hefty discounts and special treatment when my Turkish friend tried to speak in Arabic (he was not fluent but can get by with simple conversations). At the Hotel Nakhla in Essaouira, we were able to get a great bargain for a double room for about half the rack rate with breakfast included! Bargaining is such a daily fact of life in Morocco and every price is subject to bargaining except perhaps their utility bills!

Etiquette and Local Customs
Most Moroccans seemed polite. I observed that every conversation always started with a proper greeting, either in Arabic or French. If you do not speak either language, default to English, and most merchants will accommodate you. Knowing basic greetings in French should be spoken by a budding tourist at a minimum to maximize one's experience in this former French protectorate.

Between sexes, men and women may greet each other with an "air kiss" on both cheeks, and that's the closest physical contact that is displayed in public. Between men, physical contact is more openly displayed. It is common to see men holding hands in public but it is non-sexual in nature.

Moroccan Interior Architecture

What makes an old medina home full of character are the gracious lines and curves that integrate so seamlessly - archway doors, a courtyard fountain, camel skin sconces, iron lanterns, the most incredible zellij (tile mosaic) work and brave colors. Homes in Morocco are so alive - my favorites are the ones with a living rooftop space and also the ones that have an interior courtyard space for afternoon relaxation.

During the mornings right after breakfast, I go to the rooftop outdoor living space and simply marvel at the views of Marrakeshi homes. Because the tallest structures are the mosques (every neighborhood has to have a mosque), they make pretty good visual cues about location. This is the central mosque at the medina which was taken while I was peering through the iron railings of the rooftop at my hotel (see photo on left).

I also had the pleasure of visiting the famous Ali Ben Youssef medersa, a school of Koran which used to house students (and at one point was the largest Koranic school in North Africa) - I have never seen tile work as beautiful as those I found at this medersa in Marrakesh. Simply breathtaking!

Another interesting 19th century architectural piece is this courtyard fountain at the La Bahia Palace, a few minutes walk from the central square in Marrakesh, which used to be a harem. It has a wonderful display of painted wood, ceramics, smooth marble and symmetrical gardens.

Last and not least, here is another example of the grandiosity of arched doorways typical of grand homes and palaces in Morocco with intricate carvings - and the smaller the carving, the richer the details seem to be.

View from Above - the souks of Marrakesh

Forget about navigating the souks of Marrakesh during your first visit. But just to give an overall orientation of the layout of the place from an aerial perspective (no map will ever be as detailed) since the derbs (narrow alleys) are not shown in any map on Google and Yahoo! - here is a perspective of Marrakesh's souks. Of course, everything else starts from the Djemaa al Fna, the main square in Marrakesh. You can venture into the souks from there, and the best starting point is the Cafe Argana, which is a cafe located somewhat north of the square.
TIP: Stop by here for ice cream - I especially like the avocado and fig flavors.

Below is an aerial view of the souks in Marrakesh. Just below the picture, on the lower left hand side, is the Djemaa al Fna square which is quieter during the day but becomes alive starting at dusk through the late evening hours.

Exploring the Souks

First, lose the map! The greatest joy is getting lost in the derbs and alleys of the souks. The trick is to relax, allow yourself to wander and go wherever your instincts take you. Eventually you will find your way out.
TIP: Because the alleys are narrow, donkey carts or motorized scooters or bicycles are the only forms of transportation allowed inside the souks. However, keep to the side whenever you hear screams of "balek!" - that means there's a donkey cart right behind you!

These are the different souks of Marrakesh for those who dare to shop and conquer!

• Souk Semarine - one of the two main souk arteries, selling fabrics and inexpensive souvenirs as well as handmade Berber and Arabian carpets (look for gold door).
• Souk Lghzal (Old Slave Souk) - translates as the wool souk, selling spices, potions and apothecaries, and second hand clothing and djellabas.
• Souk Rahba Qdima (Spice Souk) - the main spice center
• Souk el Attarine (Oil and Perfume souk) - the main market for perfumes, essential oils and even spices
• Rahba Qdima (Carpet Souk) - the main carpet souk
• Souk des Bijoutiers (Jewelry Souk) - main souk for jewelry
• Souk des Babouches (Slipper Souk) - selling traditional Moroccan pointed slippers - the best place to buy since there is variety of prices and quality depending on one's budget.
  

I bought two pairs of men's slipper sandals (photo on right) - price ranged from US$12-18 (with some haggling) but expect to pay more if you want high quality sandals.
TIP: Know your European size beforehand! For example, men's size 10 in the US is 43 European, size 9.5 US is size 42 European (or thereabouts!). View this conversion table for shoe sizes.


And of course, how can one NOT buy the traditional babouche, the sandals so well-loved by Moroccans! (see photo on right, white leather babouches with sword embroidery). I bought these for around US$15 in a regular store outside the souk, so the price is fixed. There may be some benefits to this as you do not have to haggle, and the price seemed reasonable to me at that time.

TIP: When you are interested in an item and want to jumpstart the bargaining process, go as low up to a third of the quoted price, then work your way up to a compromise. Enjoy the process, don't stress out too much about it. The worst thing that can happen is that if you do not come to an agreement with the price, you can simply walk away. In most cases, the seller will want to settle with you at a fair price in order to make a sale.

Living Like a Local - the Marrakesh Riad

I have to agree that Marrakesh is a haven (or heaven, whichever way you put it) for avid interior designers. There is an explosion of riads everywhere, and I can safely attest that at least half of them are of adequate, if not above-average standards. Every entry door to a hotel greets you with a warm surprise. Such was the case of the riad where I stayed in Marrakesh. As you enter the door, you feel as though you were entering a magic universe, whereupon you are greeted by a Menzeh, a traditional lounge restored according to the Moroccan tradition (see photo above on right). The riad where I stayed is said to be an old residence of Moulay Jaâfer, one of the princes of the Royal family and cousin of King Alaouite Feu Hassan II, and was converted into a 4-star hotel then recently reconverted into an upscale hostel with private rooms.

Then, you wander around the covered patio which has a charming fountain that serves as a focal point of the interior courtyard (photo on left).





As you can see, the lounge (see photo on right) just off of the reception area at the back of the guesthouse is very enticing after a full day of wandering around the souks of Marrakesh - so it truly is my version of interior heaven, as though it was my sanctuary from the craziness of the outside world. I felt a lot of peace there after a long day "battling" the goings-on in the Djemaa al Fna square and the dizzying labyrinthian alleys of the souks!


Every morning, between 8-10am, I have the pleasure of dining al fresco at the riad's rooftop terrace (photo on left), where you have a light breakfast consisting of fresh orange juice, coffee, bread and moroccan pancakes. Then I am off to another day's exploration of the medina (a fortified walled section of the city)!

Arriving in Marrakesh, May 11, 2008

What an amazing experience to see Marrakesh in 5 days. From the frenetic energy of Madrid to the enchanting and bewildering euphoria of Djemma al Fna in Marrakesh, my adrenalin was in overdrive the whole time I was traveling in Spain and Morocco.

Marrakesh, as hyped as it is, is still a wonder to visit. As a first time visitor, it was overwhelming at first to arrive in the city just a bit after dusk on a warm May evening, as all the sights, sounds and smell of Djemma al Fna filled the air. I slowly composed my bearings as the petit taxi driver (150 MAD or Moroccan Dirhams from the airport to the medina, although I could have bargained for a bit less, say 120-130 MAD) dropped me off at Bob Fteuh, in front of one of the gates in the walled medina. From then on, I was to find my way to the Riad Amazigh (see photo above, entry into the riad or guest house) which is located right smack within the dizzying souks of Marrakesh.
(TIP: hire a boy guide and give him 20-30 dirhams, and it will save you a lot of time figuring out your way in, as there are hundreds, if not thousands of alleys or derbs in Marrakesh, and it is virtually impossible to find your way the first time!).